People come to Thailand for many reasons. Whether the reasons are beautiful beaches of the south, scenic landscapes of the north, the culture, the temples, food, shopping or the nightlife, there is something for everyone. That much is true. But Thailand is also chock-full of destinations that don’t get the eyes and attention of travelers.

While Phrae isn’t on any foreigner tourist trail or a popular Thai destination by any means, there is a charm to this province, especially its old town. For most, Phrae may be an unknown or an afterthought destination, but if you are looking for a place that is truly culturally authentic and unspoiled, then don’t pass it up as your next trip.

WHAT & WHERE IS PHRAE?

Phrae is a province in the northern part of Thailand, neighboring Phayao, Nan, Uttaradit, Sukhothai, and Lampang. It is about a 3-hour drive from Chiang Mai and is known for its temples, museums and a traditional lifestyle that dates back hundreds of years.

The main city of Phrae is named the same with its old town being the center for tourism and commerce.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF PHRAE’S OLD TOWN

The old town of Phrae is filled with a rich culture where its stories are told through magnificent Lanna style architectures and temples. Quaint neighborhoods and the locals make up a loving community where people support each other’s businesses and livelihoods.

I could feel my heart and mind become calm and at ease as time slows down here. It wasn’t a place I could see myself live in (although my fellow travel buddies do), but it would be an ideal location to detox my mind, body and soul for a week or so.

Phrae’s old town is a sleepy city. Locals say “during the day it’s quiet. At night, it’s very, very quiet.” This wasn’t an exaggeration. It’s very true. There is nothing exciting going on around here but that’s the charm about it, I guess. All you can do is visit museums, marvel at the temples or sit in a café before heading back to the hotel and going to bed.

The roads were completely empty. Even at peak hours (when school ends), there was not a single gridlock. Compared to Bangkok…well, I can’t even begin to compare. Let’s just not.

What do you expect for a province with just a population of 400,000 with barely 70,000 in their “downtown” area?

TRAM AROUND TOWN

Phrae’s official travel company together with the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) organizes tours around the old town of Phrae and beyond via a tram-shaped bus. It’s an awesome and easy way to get to know the city. Although you could easily explore the old town of Phrae by yourself on foot, bicycle or car but I think the tram is more fun and unique.

The journey starts and ends at Khum Chao Luang Museum, which is one of Phrae’s most iconic and historic buildings. Built in 1892, it was once home to the last lord of Phrae.

After taking a look inside the museum and its artifacts, we sat on the tram and rode around town as Khun Bee, our guide told us all the fascinating stories behind each attraction. I could tell you some but it would be more fun if you visit Phrae and hear them for yourself.

Beautiful Architecture & Museums

During our tram ride around the old town of Phrae, I mentioned to everyone that when I travel to places like this, I always look for unique, interesting or quirky architecture. I am no expert in it but I really appreciate the aesthetics. There is an appeal to it I can’t explain.

Phrae did not disappoint. The old town is dotted with a tremendous amount of beautiful buildings and temples of Lanna, Siam, Burmese and Colonial influence.

As we drove around, the guide told us that they are in a total, 10 noble houses in the old town of Phrae. The style of these houses (mini-mansions) varied but was mostly made of Teakwood (Lanna Kingdom) or of Colonial influence. Apparently, this style of buildings is called a gingerbread house or mansion. It was interesting to learn even if you’re not an architecture or history buff.

It’s not just the museums and mansions that tell the story and history of the town. Even the cafes and some homestays are in theme.

It’s like you’re literally taken back hundreds of years. The old city of Chiang Mai has nothing on this quaint little town.

Temple Run

If you’re a temple hopper, Phrae is one of the best places for it. Not only are there so many in a small dense area, each one tries its best to outshine each other.

The most famous and oldest temple is Wat Luang in the old town of Phrae. It’s quiet here so you have plenty of time to admire and take your photos. In fact, it’s like that at any other temple in the city. Unline at temples in Chiang Mai, Sukhothai, Bangkok or Ayutthaya. Here you can peacefully explore the temples.

Other temples worth visiting (if not all) are Wat Phra Non, which houses a large reclining Buddha and Wat Chom Sawan – made of teakwood (only a few of its kind).

My favorite was Wat Phong Sunan, simply because it was so unique and intriguing. It’s one of those religious sites that makes you go WTF and WOW at the same time.

Wat Phong Sunan is an impressive collection of Buddhist structures. On the right is gold chedi, behind it is the main hall. To the left, an interesting statue of a gold turtle that was apparently created after some kids drowned in the area (so the legend goes).

The most enchanting of them all is Prathat Phong Sunan Mongkhon, which features striking white spires with golden tips.

There is also a large reclining buddha at the back. All these gold and white relics were stunningly illuminated with the sunlight and looked mesmerizing against the blue sky.

We visited a total of 16 sites in a span of 3 hours. I’ve never been to this many temples and museums in a single day!

BEYOND THE OLD TOWN

There are more things to do and see in Phrae than just in town. Since they are a bit away, you will need to book a taxi or get in touch with Phrae Travel to organize a tour for you. You may also be able to hail a songthaew somewhere in the city. I’m not sure though as I did not notice any.

Here are some of the places you can visit beyond the old town.

Wat Phra That Chao Hae

Locals say that you have not been to Phrae without visiting Wat Phra That Cho Hae. Situated on a hill about 10 km southeast from town, this is one of the most worshiped temples in Phrae.

It was actually our first stop after landing at Phrae airport. The temple definitely gives off a very peaceful and revered vibe with many locals and tourists praying or giving alms.

After climbing up these 120 steps or so, we came across a large veranda with a large golden chedi in the middle surrounding by temple halls, a few smaller stupas, several relics, and multiple (five in total) entrance stairways.

DIY Indigo Dye Workshop

Although you can partake in making your own indigo-dyed fabrics almost all over Phrae, we made our way about 16 km northeast of town to Banmatjai – a workshop and cafe.

Banmatjai is run by a couple of women (probably a family) who are not only talented but extremely friendly.

They taught us how to design our fabric (a choice between a tote bag or plain cloth) with indigo dye. To think that each design has its own way of twisting, folding and dipping. They even give us these tools (flat rocks, pipes, and whatnot) to help create the designs. It is quite complex, to be honest.

That’s mine on the left. I just wanted a simple, easy design to wear as a bandana on my next hippie music festival. But, wow, what a fun activity for couples, family, and friends alike.

Phae Mueang Phi

Not far from Banmatjai is one of Phrae’s most mystifying attractions. Phae Mueang Phi is a national forest park with one notable and curious spot. About 100 meters in you will have no chance but to notice a bunch of oddly-shaped rock/soil formations.

At first glance, it doesn’t look much but the deeper you go along the path, the weirder it gets. You start wondering how did these formations get made or get here?

According to park info, these columns are a mixture of gravel, stone, soil, and sand. All these elements are layered and each reacts differently to the environment. Over millions of years, these columns have eroded – shaping and reshaping continuously.

The forest itself also has a mysterious story.

There is a legend that an old women went in the forest looking for food and bamboo for shelter. She got lost. While making her way out she came across some gold. When she tried to take it out, she got lost even further. So she had to abandon the gold. She was finally able to escape the forst. Those who followed, ended up with the same fate.

What do you think of this story? This is where the park gets its name – the forest of the city of ghosts

I must admit, Phrae was a nice change from my usual trips across Thailand. Usually, we always go to the beach or big mountain destinations. But this, this was a pleasant surprise.

As you guys may or may not know, we have a mission to tick off every province of Thailand. Phrae is now the 24th province we have visited.